Isolated from its closest neighbour Auckland Island 660 km of wild, deep Southern Ocean, the last landfall before Antarctica, Macquarie Island is a wildlife refuge like no other.
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Elephant seals, King and Royal penguins in a cove on Sandy Bay
Despite its tiny size and extreme topography, the island supports a thriving populous of Elephant Seals, Fur Seals, Royal, King, Gentoo and Rockhopper Penguins, Wandering Albatross and Giant Petrels, as well as numerous other seabirds and marine animals. With no land, nowhere to breed, for 5000 kms to the east and west, seals haul out to give birth and mate on the island and non-breeding visitors rest from their endless swim. Seabirds fly thousands of kilometres to nest and rear their young on the plateau and rock stacks. Countless generations of penguins have thronged the beaches, raising chicks who inevitably gravitate back to their birthplace to continue the family line.
Penguins
Four species of penguins nest on Macquarie Island, with numerous colonies on the northern and eastern beaches and even up in the caves and tussock grasses on the beach terraces. Over 2 million birds land on the island each year to breed and raise their young.
- Macquarie Island has a long history of battling the impacts of introduced pests. The weka, or Maori hen, was brought to Macquarie Island in 1867 from New Zealand as a source of food. The weka put pressure on the native Macquarie Island parakeet and rail, and the species became extinct on the island.
- The Macquarie Island Toothfish Fishery was assessed under Part 10 (strategic assessments) of the EPBC Act in 2005. I have considered AFMA’s report on the trial fishing and the additional seabird bycatch mitigation measures to be adopted should demersal longline fishing become an approved fishing method.
- Major impacts include the destruction of almost half of the island’s tall tussock grassland and the depletion of keystone palatable species, a decline in the abundance and or breeding success of a range of seabird species due to habitat degradation, increased exposure to the elements and predation, as well as increased slope erosion.
Royal PenguinsEudyptes schlegeli are endemic to Macquarie Island, and although closely related to Macaroni penguins only breed on Macquarie Island and have a distinctive white chin. Like most penguins, Royal Penguins share the parenting of their young and feed mainly on fish, squid and small crustaceans. Royal Penguins are by far the most numerous birds on Macquarie Island, with an estimated population of over 850,000 breeding pairs. Despite their large concentration on the island, the Royal Penguin is currently listed as Vulnerable to Extinction under the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List due to its restricted breeding habits – any threats to the island are a direct threat to the penguin population.
King PenguinsAptenodytes patagonicus were heavily harvested for oil in the 19th century, but thankfully the species has recovered well on Macquarie Island and there is a substantial breeding population that is still increasing in size. They look very similar to, and are closely related to the ice-dwelling Emperor penguin of Antarctica. King Penguins breed on a number of Subantarctic islands, and their diet consists mainly of lantern fish. King Penguin chicks do not fledge in the first year, spending the winter on Macquarie Island with their parents returning from their own winter feeding grounds to keep the chick nourished. Like other penguins, King penguins go through an annual ‘catastrophic molt’, replacing all their feathers over a short period. A penguin will feed heavily at sea then stay on land for up to 3 weeks until the molt has finished. King penguins are listed as a species ‘of least concern’ by the IUCN, which means it is not facing serious threats and is expected to keep thriving in the Southern Ocean.
King penguins
A King penguin going through the annual catastrophic molt
Gentoo PenguinsPygoscelis papuaspend all year on Macquarie Island, feeding not too far offshore and returning to land nearly every day. They are deep divers, able to plunge up to 200 meters below the surface in pursuit of prey. Rock cod, squid and amphipods make up most of their diet, all of which are abundant in the deep Macquarie Trench, just offshore from the island. Gentoos prefer ice-free areas, especially for nesting. They build their nest out of grass, feathers and other materials, rather than brooding their eggs on their feet like King Penguins. They are one of the most widely distributed penguins and can be found around the Southern Ocean. The subspecies Pygoscelis papua ellsworthii prefers a colder environment and breeds as far south as the Antarctic Peninsular.
Rockhopper PenguinsEudyptes chrysocome are the smallest crested penguin, only reaching a diminutive 50 cm in height. Their name describes their movements on land – hopping and bouncing across uneven rocky Subantarctic island beaches and nesting grounds, rather than waddling. Like all penguins, their powerful streamlined wings are superbly effective flippers for propelling them through the water in pursuit of prey, or away from predators. Rockhopper penguins breed on a number of Subantarctic islands and have been declining throughout their range in recent years – it’s not currently known why. The main suspect is a warming ocean, caused by climate change. This affects the penguins’ food sources – mostly small crustaceans – and also their breeding behaviour. This drop in Rockhopper numbers has resulted in the species being listed as Vulnerable to Extinction by the IUCN.
Rockhopper penguins. This photo was taken at Auckland Island
Like all birds, penguins have unique calls. This website has links where you can listen to the calls of different species of penguin.
Seals
Southern Elephant SealMirunga leonina. Towering over thousands of penguins, the Elephant Seal is impossible to miss. Males can weigh in at up to 3000kg, with the biggest males called Beachmasters. They are named after the male’s large proboscis which is used to vocalise their presence and ward off breeding competitors.
Elephant seals hauled out on Sandy Bay, with a large Beachmaster (note the proboscis nose) in the foreground. This photo was taken after breeding and the fierce competition for mates had finished
Watch a fierce breeding battle between two Beachmasters on this video.
Like the penguins, Elephant seals go through a yearly molt. This sub-adult is scratching off last year’s golden fur, exposing the new grey fur below
Elephant Seals haul out on the island in September, males coming ashore first. Females come ashore several weeks later to give birth and suckle their pups, then mate again before heading out to sea to feed through winter. Elephant Seals head south from Macquarie Island for winter, feeding on squid and fish along the ice shelves of Antarctica. They have amazing biological adaptions to their blood and muscle that allow them to dive over 1500m deep, and stay submerged for up to two hours. Elephant Seals were targeted by sealing gangs throughout the 19th century for their rich blubber, but made a good recovery after sealing was banned. It has been noticed in recent decades that their numbers are dropping, but the cause is unknown. Some factors could be the increase in competition for food from other seal species, or effects of climate change. Despite this, Elephant Seals are listed as a species ‘of least concern’ by the IUCN, which is hopeful for the seals’ future.
Three other species of seal breed on Macquarie Island: the endangered Sub-antarctic fur sealArctocephalus tropicalis, the Antarctic fur sealArctocephalus gazelle and the New Zealand fur sealArctocephalus fosteri. There was a thriving fur seal population on the island when it was first discovered in 1810, which was wiped out by 1820. It’s still not known what species of fur seal were on the island then, and if they were of a now extinct species. Fur seals began returning to the island in the 20th century, and now have established breeding grounds. There is some evidence that the three species of fur seals on Macquarie Island interbreed. A 2009 study looked at the possible causes and impacts of interbreeding, and suggested it may be a consequence of the ongoing impacts from the age of sealing.
Seabirds
Seals and penguins are the most visible wildlife to a tourist in the island, but they represent only a few of the native animals that nest, breed and live in this isolated refuge. The plateau and rock stacks around the island are filled with nesting birds each spring and summer, from majestic albatrosses to tiny Fairy Prions. Over 30 bird species are known to breed on the island and another 60 are regular visitors.
Four species of albatross nest on the islands, the most abundant being the Light-mantled sooty albatross Phoebetria palpebrata, that nests on the steep tussock slopes going up from the beaches to the high plateau.
Grey-headed albatross Thalassarche chrysostomaand Black-browed albatross Thalassarche melanophrys both only breed at a small number of sites in the south west region of the island, including the Bishop and Clerk Islets.
Wandering albatross Diomedea exulans nest mainly on the islands plateau and breed every 2 years. Their long breeding cycle is thought to play a role in the dwindling numbers of this majestic bird, which is listed as Vulnerable to Extinction by the IUCN.
Albatrosses and many other seabirds spend years at sea on the open ocean, only returning to land to breed. Very little is known about their lives away from land, and there are research programs around the world looking to fill in the gaps in our knowledge like the Global Seabird Tracking Database. This global project is collating datapoints from around the world about seabirds and their distribution, combining information from over 120 research institutions.
Albatrosses and other large seabirds, like Giant Petrels, are seriously threatened by the thriving fishing industry in the Southern Ocean. The main threat comes from the practices of long-line and trawl fishing, where the birds are unwanted by-catch. Thousands of large seabirds die as by-catch each year, and the international community is taking steps to reduce this toll through the Agreement on the Conservation of Albatrosses and Petrels, which seeks to mitigate the threats to albatross and petrels from human activity, primarily from the fishing industry.
The Southern Giant Petrel Macronectes giganteus, and the Northern Giant Petrel Macronectes halli breed on Macquarie Island. Both species have declined significantly in recent decades, impacts from the fishing industry are thought to play a part.
Northern and Southern Giant Petrels look almost exactly the same, I think this is a Southern Giant Petrel as it has a dark iris.
Oher large birds that call Macquarie Island home include the fierce Subantarctic Skua Catharacta skua that scavenges carrion and preys on live small birds, and the no less voracious Kelp Gull Larus dominicanus, which has been known to eat its own eggs and chicks in times of need.
There is another endemic bird to be found on the island, a subspecies of the King shag Phalacrocorax albiventer purpurascens aka Leucocarbo atriceps purpurascens. This bird breeds only on Macquarie Island and is closely related to the striking Blue eyed cormorant Phalacrocorax atriceps.
This is only a small selection of the wildlife to be found on Macquarie Island, and more detailed information can be found here.
The biodiversity of the island does not end with its large birds and mammals. Although no reptiles or amphibians have been recorded on the island, there is a healthy terrestrial invertebrate community of approximately 300 species, with an estimated 10% thought to be endemic. These include a native land snail and two species of slugs. Fourteen nematode species have been recorded, and it appears that the freshwater invertebrates in the lakes and wetlands of the island can be found on other Subantarctic islands, indicating they likely travelled to the island on the legs, feet and feathers of migrating birds (Macquarie Island World Heritage Area Management Plan 2006).
Marine Life
Endemic invertebrates are not just found above sea level. In and beyond the islands tidal zones are rich and diverse communities of marine invertebrates including starfish, molluscs, sponges and amphipods, to name a few. Many of the species that have been identified so far appear to be endemic to Macquarie Island, especially molluscs. Dense swathes of kelp and algae, anchored in rocky substrate provide a comparatively sheltered environment from the ever-present West Wind Drift, or Antarctic Circumpolar Current. Surviving in this shelter from the inexorable current may play a role in the type species found here – the amphipods and isopods most commonly found in the waters around Macquarie Island do not go through a free-swimming larval stage, but brood their young instead. This would ensure more young survive and thrive in the sheltered environment around the island, rather than be washed out into the open ocean.
Kelp thrives on a tide platform at Sandy Bay. The rocks are crusted with molluscs and other invertebrates.
Any invertebrate young that do get washed out to sea would be quickly eaten by the fish and squid inhabiting the deep waters around the island. The Macquarie Trench is rich with marine life, providing nearly all the food required by the animal population of the island. Antarctic Toothfish, Patagonian Toothfish, Lantern fish and numerous species of Squid thrive in the cool, nutrient rich waters, and can escape the lines and nets of Macquarie Island Toothfish Fishery within the 12 nautical mile bounds of the Nature Reserve.
The largest predator in the Macquarie Island Nature Reserve is undoubtedly the Killer Whale Orcinus orca, or Orca. With a mouthful of sharp teeth, Orcas are top tier predators feeding on Elephant Seals, Fur Seals, large squid and even other whales. They are skilled and canny hunters, and often hunt in family groups, or pods, aided by excellent communication between individuals. Orca communication has been extensively studied, and it has been proposed that they even have local dialects. Orcas are found around the globe, from the poles to the tropics and while they do not have any natural predators, they are threatened by human activities like fishing and pollution. More information is needed to determine the health of the global Orca population, but it is hoped their adaptability will ensure their survival.
Macquarie Islands’ charismatic and abundant wildlife has been bringing people from across the globe to its shores for over 200 years. Until the early decades of the 20th century, seals and penguins were relentlessly harvested for oil and skins resulting in the extermination of fur seal colonies, and possibly an entire species. Scientific interest, and expeditions dedicated to studying the island, took off in the 20th century, followed by students and tourists keen to experience this unique natural wonder. Today, the island and its wildlife is protected by international, federal and state laws and agreements that ensure protection from exploitation and encourage both research and sustainable tourism, to better understand the amazing wildlife of Macquarie Island.
A week in the life of a Macquarie Island wildlife ranger
Two Tasmania Parks and Wildlife Service rangers are based on Macquarie Island this year and, even though the days of winter are considerably shorter than summer, there is always plenty to do. Chris Howard and Mike Fawcett are into their second season on Macca. Their collective knowledge and experience gained over the previous year is really being put to good use as the island regenerates without pressure of rabbits, rats and mice. Chris, as the ranger in charge, is generally responsible for daily management of the island including works programmes, tourism management, track maintenance and administration. Mike, as the wildlife ranger, is primarily focused on wildlife research. The reserve is home to some 35 species of animal including penguins, burrowing petrels, albatross, seals, whales and dolphins. Mike’s extensive knowledge of the island landscape, gained as a hunter with the Macquarie Island Pest Eradication Programme, continues to be put to good use as the island is now being monitored during the post eradication stage.
The role of rangers on Macquarie Island nature reserve and world heritage area is really no different to that of their counterparts working anywhere else in Australia, however their office is quite unique. The terrestrial component of the reserve where rangers spend most their time covers a total area of approx 12785 hectares, just over 14% of the greater reserve area of 87500 hectares. The greater protected area includes some outlying islands and surrounding waters out to 16 nautical miles, just under 22 kilometres.
So , what do they actually do? Tasks at the present include monitoring the breeding activities of the grey petrel, a burrowing seabird that nests in steep tussock-covered slopes. So far this season, approximately 35 burrows are being monitored for breeding activity. Blue petrels are also active at this time of year and rangers are out looking for their breeding locations. This season six wandering albatross chicks are being monitored over winter. The birds are all located in the remote southern corner of Macquarie Island and are checked monthly, with rangers taking care to observe from a safe distance as to ensure minimal disturbance. Information is sent back to researchers in Hobart as part of a greater albatross monitoring programme. Macquarie Island is an incredibly important breeding location for many bird species. Populations here have suffered from the impacts of cats, rodents and rabbits. It’s still early days on the island in the post eradication era, but the signs are good. King penguin chick population is also being monitored over winter in some locations.
The eradication of rabbits has also meant that the island flora is starting to recover. Recently, a significant tussock grass species was found growing well outside of its previously recorded range. Poa litorosa was only known to be growing in a couple of isolated locations, but recent observations have expanded the range of the species significantly. The grass has always been there — it was being eaten off by rabbits. One task of importance at the moment is the dismantling of all the old wire grazing enclosures before they disappear in the long grass. These plots have been used by researchers for many years to monitor the impact of rabbits. The wire and rusted star pickets can now be removed to prevent possible injury to wildlife. The plots still contain very important floristic information, so the steel pickets are being replaced with more flexible plastic conduit.
The weather on Macca takes a bit of getting used to. Days of sunshine are certainly appreciated amongst the gray rainy days — you learn to take it in your stride. It is not uncommon for rangers work solo, be in the field for two to three weeks at a time and to clock up 80 to 100 kilometres a week as they go about their tasks. No quad bikes or four wheel drives to use — good old fashioned walking!
There’s always other jobs to be done. Decking to be repaired, track markers, or even the preservation of historic artefacts is a really handy one to have up your sleeve for the days when nature says it’s best to be inside. And there is no escape from the administrative tasks — a week in the field will always result in a couple of days worth of reports. In amongst all of this, there is still our fair share of station duties to do as well.
And that’s just in a quiet week over winter. Wait until summer gets here and we start to get busy!
Impact On Wildlifemacquarie Island Hopping
A special award from the Macquarie Island Ratepayers Association (MIRPA)
The MIRPA special award: extraordinary repairs to the bar fridge!
It’s early evening, Sunday the 6 July, a quiet day on Macquarie Island station and everyone is off doing their own thing. Paul Deverall, station electrician (and officer in charge of station home brewing) comes into the mess and notices the bar fridge has gone quiet very quiet. So quiet in fact that it’s not working at all. Beads of perspiration suddenly emerge from his forehead, as he realises this may be disastrous, not only for the brew master, but for station morale in general!
He thinks to himself, surely this is an easy fix, but no! After a full day of fault finding, replacing parts, and searching theinternet, the pressure was on for Paul to come good with the bar fridge. And after further dedicated perseverance, application of intuition, and skilled improvisation based on a lifetime of experience, Paul triumphed.
Impact On Wildlifemacquarie Islands
On the morning of the second day, Paul gave building services supervisor Graeme a quietly confident nod, and with a wry smile, gave the thumbs up. Station morale had been restored.
So at the following Saturday afternoon’s MIRPA (Macquarie Island Rate Payers Association) meeting the MIRPA construction manager Graeme, and the communications senior executive Scotty, decided that Paul’s efforts should be rewarded.
Impact On Wildlifemacquarie Island Golf Cart Rentals
Impact On Wildlifemacquarie Island Lighthouse
And so it was that for outstanding services beyond the call of duty and valour, ingenuity, perseverance, stress and finally overcoming incredible pressure from the station observers, Paul received the MIRPA special award, ‘Certificate of Appreciation'.